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| Titel |
On kinematics of very steep waves |
| VerfasserIn |
L. Shemer |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Science ; 13, no. 8 ; Nr. 13, no. 8 (2013-08-22), S.2101-2107 |
| Datensatznummer |
250085503
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-13-2101-2013.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Experiments on extremely steep deterministic waves generated in a large wave
tank by focusing of a broad-banded wave train serve as a motivation for the
theoretical analysis of the conditions leading to wave breaking. Particular
attention is given to the crest of the steepest wave where both the
horizontal velocity and the vertical acceleration attain their maxima.
Analysis is carried out up to the third order in wave steepness. The apparent,
Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations are computed for wave parameters
observed in experiments. It is demonstrated that for a wave group with a wide
spectrum, the crest propagation velocity differs significantly from both the
phase and the group velocities of the peak wave. Conclusions are drawn
regarding the applicability of various criteria for wave breaking. |
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