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| Titel |
The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth |
| VerfasserIn |
A. Toffoli, M. Benoit, M. Onorato, E. M. Bitner-Gregersen |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1023-5809
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics ; 16, no. 1 ; Nr. 16, no. 1 (2009-02-24), S.131-139 |
| Datensatznummer |
250013094
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/npg-16-131-2009.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong
deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the
wave field is long crested, narrow banded and sufficiently steep. A reduction
of third-order effects is however expected when the wave energy is
distributed on a wide range of directions. In water of arbitrary depth, on
the other hand, third-order effects tend to be suppressed by finite depth
effects if waves are long crested. Numerical simulations of the truncated
potential Euler equations are here used to address the combined effect of
directionality and finite depth on the statistical properties of surface
gravity waves; only relative water depth kh greater than 0.8 are here
considered. Results show that random directional wave fields in intermediate
water depths, kh=O(1), weakly deviate from Gaussian statistics
independently of the degree of directional spreading of the wave energy. |
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