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Titel |
Steep unidirectional wave groups – fully nonlinear simulations vs. experiments |
VerfasserIn |
L. Shemer, B. K. Ee |
Medientyp |
Artikel
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Sprache |
Englisch
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ISSN |
1023-5809
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Digitales Dokument |
URL |
Erschienen |
In: Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics ; 22, no. 6 ; Nr. 22, no. 6 (2015-12-04), S.737-747 |
Datensatznummer |
250121013
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Publikation (Nr.) |
copernicus.org/npg-22-737-2015.pdf |
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Zusammenfassung |
A detailed quantitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the
measurements of unidirectional wave groups is presented. Computational
results on evolving wave groups were compared with previous available
experiments. The local surface elevation variation, the
evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest
crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were
obtained numerically and experimentally. Conditions corresponding to
incipient wave breaking were investigated in greater detail. The results shed
additional light on mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves, as
well as on the crucial importance of exact matching between initial
conditions in computations and experiments. |
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