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| Titel |
Statistical properties of nonlinear one-dimensional wave fields |
| VerfasserIn |
D. Chalikov |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1023-5809
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics ; 12, no. 5 ; Nr. 12, no. 5 (2005-06-30), S.671-689 |
| Datensatznummer |
250010775
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/npg-12-671-2005.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is
described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary
Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and
thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical
properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct
hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D potential periodic surface waves. The method
is based on a nonstationary conformal surface-following coordinate
transformation; this approach reduces the principal equations of potential
waves to two simple evolutionary equations for the elevation and the
velocity potential on the surface. The numerical scheme is based on a
Fourier transform method. High accuracy was confirmed by validation of the
nonstationary model against known solutions, and by comparison between the
results obtained with different resolutions in the horizontal. The scheme
allows reproduction of the propagation of steep Stokes waves for thousands
of periods with very high accuracy. The method here developed is applied to
simulation of the evolution of wave fields with large number of modes for
many periods of dominant waves. The statistical characteristics of nonlinear
wave fields for waves of different steepness were investigated: spectra,
curtosis and skewness, dispersion relation, life time. The prime result is
that wave field may be presented as a superposition of linear waves is valid
only for small amplitudes. It is shown as well, that nonlinear wave fields
are rather a superposition of Stokes waves not linear waves. Potential flow, free surface, conformal mapping, numerical modeling of
waves, gravity waves, Stokes waves, breaking waves, freak waves, wind-wave
interaction. |
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