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| Titel |
Nonlinear random wave field in shallow water: variable Korteweg-de Vries framework |
| VerfasserIn |
A. Sergeeva, E. Pelinovsky, T. Talipova |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Science ; 11, no. 2 ; Nr. 11, no. 2 (2011-02-03), S.323-330 |
| Datensatznummer |
250009148
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-11-323-2011.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| The transformation of a random wave field in shallow water of variable depth
is analyzed within the framework of the variable-coefficient Korteweg-de
Vries equation. The characteristic wave height varies with depth according to
Green's law, and this follows rigorously from the theoretical model. The
skewness and kurtosis are computed, and it is shown that they increase when
the depth decreases, and simultaneously the wave state deviates from the
Gaussian. The probability of large-amplitude (rogue) waves increases within
the transition zone. The characteristics of this process depend on the wave
steepness, which is characterized in terms of the Ursell parameter. The
results obtained show that the number of rogue waves may deviate
significantly from the value expected for a flat bottom of a given depth. If
the random wave field is represented as a soliton gas, the probabilities of
soliton amplitudes increase to a high-amplitude range and the number of
large-amplitude (rogue) solitons increases when the water shallows. |
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