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| Titel |
Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone |
| VerfasserIn |
Th. V. Karambas |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1023-5809
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics ; 3, no. 2 ; Nr. 3, no. 2, S.127-134 |
| Datensatznummer |
250000867
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/npg-3-127-1996.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Breaking wave energy in the surf
zone is modelled
through the incorporation of the time dependent energy
balance
equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation
model.
The energy equations solved simultaneously with the
momentum
and continuity equation. Turbulence effects and
the non
uniform horizontal velocity distribution due to
breaking is
introduced in both the energy and momentum
equations. The
dissipation term is a function of the velocity defect
derived
from a turbulent analysis. The resulting system
predicts both
wave characteristics (surface elevation and velocity)
and the
energy distribution inside surf zone. The model is
validated
against experimental data and analytical expressions. |
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