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| Titel |
Extreme waves at Filyos, southern Black Sea |
| VerfasserIn |
E. Bilyay, B. O. Ozbahceci, A. C. Yalciner |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Science ; 11, no. 3 ; Nr. 11, no. 3 (2011-03-03), S.659-666 |
| Datensatznummer |
250009248
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-11-659-2011.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| A wave measurement project was carried out for a new port planned in Filyos,
in the Western Black Sea region of Turkey. The measurement at a depth of
12.5 m lasted for a period of two years and 7949 records were obtained.
During the analysis, it was noticed that there were 209 records in which
H/Hs ratio was higher than 2.0. These higher waves in a record are
called extreme waves in this study. Although the purpose of wave measurement
is not to investigate extreme waves, it is believed that studying these
unexpected waves could be interesting. Therefore, detailed statistical and
spectral analyses on the extreme waves were done for the records. The
analyses results show that the distribution of surface profiles of the
records containing extreme waves deviates from Gaussian distribution with the
negative skewness changing between –0.01 and –0.4 and with the high
kurtosis in the range of 3.1–4.2. Although the probability of occurrence of
the extreme waves is over-predicted by the Rayleigh distribution, a higher
ratio of Hs/ηrms indicates that the wave height
distribution can be represented by Rayleigh. The average value of the slope
of the frequency spectrum at the high frequency range is proportional to
f–9 which is much steeper than the typical wind-wave frequency power
law, f–4, –5. The directional spreading is measured with the parameter
Smax and it is in the range of 5–70 for the extreme wave records.
The wave and current interaction was also investigated and it was found that
in most cases, extreme waves occur when the wave and the current are almost
aligned. Furthermore, it is observed that extreme waves appear within a group
of high waves. |
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