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| Titel |
Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon |
| VerfasserIn |
A. Torres-Freyermuth, I. Mariño-Tapia, C. Coronado, P. Salles, G. Medellín, A. Pedrozo-Acuña, R. Silva, J. Candela, R. Iglesias-Prieto |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Science ; 12, no. 12 ; Nr. 12, no. 12 (2012-12-21), S.3765-3773 |
| Datensatznummer |
250011265
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-12-3765-2012.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon
are investigated by means of a phase-resolving non-hydrostatic wave model
(SWASH). This model solves the nonlinear shallow water equations including
non-hydrostatic pressure. The one-dimensional version of the model is
implemented in order to investigate wave transformation in fringing reefs.
Firstly, the numerical model is validated with (i) laboratory experiments
conducted on a physical model (Demirbilek et al., 2007)and (ii) field
observations (Coronado et al., 2007). Numerical results show good agreement with
both experimental and field data. The comparison against the physical model
results, for energetic wave conditions, indicates that high- and low-frequency
wave transformation is well reproduced. Moreover, extreme
water-level conditions measured during the passage of Hurricane Ivan in
Puerto Morelos are also estimated by the numerical tool. Subsequently, the
model is implemented at different along-reef locations in Puerto Morelos.
Extreme water levels, wave-induced setup, and infragravity wave energy are
estimated inside the reef lagoon for different storm wave conditions
(Hs >2 m). The numerical results revealed a strong correlation between the
offshore sea-swell wave energy and the setup. In contrast, infragravity waves
are shown to be the result of a more complex pattern which heavily relies on
the reef geometry. Indeed, the southern end of the reef lagoon provides
evidence of resonance excitation, suggesting that the reef barrier may act as
either a natural flood protection morphological feature, or as an inundation
hazard enhancer depending on the incident wave conditions. |
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