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| Titel |
Gravity wave amplification and phase crest re-organization over a shoal |
| VerfasserIn |
N. Jarry, V. Rey, F. Gouaud, D. Lajoie |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Science ; 11, no. 3 ; Nr. 11, no. 3 (2011-03-14), S.789-796 |
| Datensatznummer |
250009260
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-11-789-2011.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| In this experimental work, both wave amplification and phase evolution, due to
a submerged mound, are studied. In addition to the classical surface wave
measurements, the experimental study takes advantage of photographs that
underline crest re-organization above and down-wave the shoal. In particular,
together with wave amplification up to more than twice the incident wave, a
wave steepening is observed in certain conditions in both the wave direction
and in the cross-section. Due to a phase crest separation downstream of the
shoal, steepening in the cross-shore direction is enhanced (up to 30% above
the steepening along the main direction of propagation). Physical aspects are
discussed through the analysis of the diffraction effects on the wave properties. |
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