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| Titel |
Predicting freakish sea state with an operational third-generation wave model |
| VerfasserIn |
T. Waseda, K. In, K. Kiyomatsu, H. Tamura, Y. Miyazawa, K. Iyama |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences ; 14, no. 4 ; Nr. 14, no. 4 (2014-04-22), S.945-957 |
| Datensatznummer |
250118397
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-14-945-2014.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| The understanding of freak wave generation mechanisms has advanced and the
community has reached a consensus that spectral geometry plays an important
role. Numerous marine accident cases were studied and revealed that the
narrowing of the directional spectrum is a good indicator of dangerous sea.
However, the estimation of the directional spectrum depends on the
performance of the third-generation wave model. In this work, a well-studied
marine accident case in Japan in 1980 (Onomichi-Maru incident) is
revisited and the sea states are hindcasted using both the DIA (discrete
interaction approximation) and SRIAM (Simplified Research Institute of
Applied Mechanics) nonlinear source terms. The result indicates that the
temporal evolution of the basic parameters (directional spreading and
frequency bandwidth) agree reasonably well between the two schemes and
therefore the most commonly used DIA method is qualitatively sufficient to
predict freakish sea state. The analyses revealed that in the case of
Onomichi-Maru, a moving gale system caused the spectrum to grow in
energy with limited downshifting at the accident's site. This conclusion
contradicts the marine inquiry report speculating that the two swell systems
crossed at the accident's site. The unimodal wave system grew under strong
influence of local wind with a peculiar energy transfer. |
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