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| Titel |
A validation of an operational wave and surge prediction system for the Dutch coast |
| VerfasserIn |
L. Sembiring, M. van Ormondt, A. van Dongeren, D. Roelvink |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences ; 15, no. 6 ; Nr. 15, no. 6 (2015-06-16), S.1231-1242 |
| Datensatznummer |
250119532
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-15-1231-2015.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Knowledge of the actual condition of hydrodynamics in the nearshore and
coastal area is essential for coastal monitoring activities. To this end, a
coastal operational model system can serve as a tool in providing recent and
up-to-date, state-of-the-art hydrodynamics along the coast. In this paper, we
apply CoSMoS (Coastal Storm Modeling System), a generic operational wave and
tide-surge modelling system applied here to predict waves and water levels
along the Dutch coast. The CoSMoS application is not limited to storm impact
prediction on the Dutch coast, but can also be applied to other coastal
hazards such as rip currents and coastal flooding, in other environments.
In this paper, we present the set-up of the CoSMoS system and a validation
of the wave and surge model, with deep-water wave buoy data and tidal
gauge measurements as ground truth validation material. The evaluation is
presented as monthly error measures between computed parameters and observed
ones. Hindcast results over the whole year of 2009 show that the simulated
wave parameters and surge elevation from the CoSMoS are in good agreement
with data, with average root mean square (rms) error over the year of 0.14 m for
the surge elevation and 0.24 m for the significant wave height. It is noted
that there is a tendency of the wave model to underestimate the height of
northerly waves with lower frequencies (swell). Additionally, when a wave
separation algorithm is applied on the overall spectrum, results show
consistent underestimation of the swell component by the model, which for
the Dutch coast will mainly come from the north, where the North Sea is open
to the Atlantic Ocean. In the proposed model system, the swell boundary can
have a significant effect on the simulated wave results, suggesting room for
improvement for the swell boundary conditions to the north and the swell
propagation within the Dutch Continental Shelf Model. Finally, we show that
in forecast mode, CoSMoS can provide reasonably good wave and surge
prediction. |
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