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| Titel |
A simple model of the effect of bottom sediment transport on wave set-up |
| VerfasserIn |
Roger Grimshaw, Evans Osaisai |
| Konferenz |
EGU General Assembly 2011
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| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| Digitales Dokument |
PDF |
| Erschienen |
In: GRA - Volume 13 (2011) |
| Datensatznummer |
250047051
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Wave-averaged mean field equations are commonly used to describe wave set-up and wave-induced mean currents in the near-shore zone. Here we combine these with a simple empirical sediment flux law depending only on the wave-induced mean current. The resulting model allows the bottom to evolve slowly in time, and is used to examine how sediment transport affects wave set-up in the surf zone. We show that the mean bottom depth in the surf zone evolves according to a simple wave equation, whose solution predicts that the mean bottom depth increases and the shoreline recedes. Further, we show that if the introduced sediment flux law also allows for a dependence on the beach slope then the simple wave equation is replaced by a nonlinear diffusion equation which allows a steady-state solution, the equilibrium beach profile. |
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