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| Titel |
Wind effects on waves propagating to the shore: experimental and numerical investigations |
| VerfasserIn |
Hubert Branger, Laurent Grare, Christian Kharif, Pierre Lubin, Stephane Glockner, Pauline Robin, Olivier Kimmoun |
| Konferenz |
EGU General Assembly 2011
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| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| Digitales Dokument |
PDF |
| Erschienen |
In: GRA - Volume 13 (2011) |
| Datensatznummer |
250045506
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Wind effects on water-waves propagating towards the shore are still not well known.
Cross-shore winds blowing on-shore may induce perturbations on water-wave dynamics,
wave kinematics, wave breaking in the surf zone, and wave run-up in the swash
zone.
We conducted experiments in the Ecole Centrale Marseille laboratory wave tank and in
the large air-sea interaction wind-wave facility of the IRPHE laboratory in Marseille, to study
wave transformation in the surf zone, with and without cross-shore winds (Kimmoun and
Branger 2007). Wave gauges, doppler current meter, camera visualisations and particle image
velocimetry were extensively used to monitor wave height, water currents, wave phase speed,
and run-up heights.
Different numerical models were used to simulate some of the experimental runs. a)
Large Eddy Simulation (LES) solving the Navier-Stokes equations, in air and water, coupled
with a dynamic subgrid scale turbulence model (Lubin et al 2006, Lubin et al 2010); b)
GERRIS open source Navier-Stokes equation solver, in air and water, with an automatic mesh
refinement (see Fuster et al 2009 for a description and examples); and c) Boussinesq-like
model (Bingham et al 2009) including wave dissipation by breaking and wind momentum
input by Jeffreys (1925)/Miles(1957) mechanism, and run-up modelisation (Lynett et al
2002).
Experimental and numerical results are presented. Qualitative and quantitative
comparisons are made, more particularly on wave crests and wave trough envelope, mean
water level, velocity vectors, wave phase speed and run-up. It is shown that wind has strong
effects on water wave amplification, breaking location, run-up and beach flooding if the wind
is very strong.
This work was supported by ANR Grant : BLAN07-1_192661, under project
HEXECO.
- Bingham H.B., Madsen P.A. and Fuhrman D.R., “Velocity potential formulation of
highly accurate Boussinesq-type models}, Coast. Eng., 2009, 56, 467-478.
- Fuster D., Agbaglah G., Josserand C., Popinet S. and Zaleski S., “Numerical
simulation of droplets, bubbles and waves: state of the art”, 2009, Fluid Dyn. Res.,
41:065001.
- Jeffreys H., “On the formation of wave by wind.”, 1925, Proc. Roy. Soc. Lond., 107,
189–206.
- Kimmoun O. and Branger H., A PIV investigation on laboratory surf-zone breaking
waves over a sloping beach., 2007, J. Fluid Mech., 588, 353–397.
- Lubin P., Glockner S., Kimmoun O. and Branger H., “Numerical study of the
hydrodynamics of regular waves breaking over a sloping beach”, 2010, submitted to
EJM..
- Lubin P.,Vincent S., Abadie S. and Caltagirone J.P., Three-dimensional Large Eddy
Simulation of air entrainment under plunging breaking waves, Coast. Eng, 53, 631–655,
2006.
- Lynett P.J., Wu T.R., Liu P.L.F. “Modelling wave run-up with depth-integred equations”,
Coast. Eng., 2002, 46, 89-107.
- Miles J.W., On the generation of surface waves by shear flows., 1957, Journ. Fluid
Mech., 3, 185–204. |
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