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Titel Modulation depth and breaking strength for deep-water wave groups.
VerfasserIn Alina Galchenko, Alexander Babanin, Dmitry Chalikov, Ian Young, Tai-Wen Hsu
Konferenz EGU General Assembly 2010
Medientyp Artikel
Sprache Englisch
Digitales Dokument PDF
Erschienen In: GRA - Volume 12 (2010)
Datensatznummer 250031743
 
Zusammenfassung
Progression of nonlinear wave groups to breaking was studied numerically and experimentally. Evolution of such wave group parameters as distance to breaking and modulation depth was described. The wave modulation depth R is a height ratio of the highest Hh and the lowest Hl waves in the group: R = Hh-ˆ•Hl (Babanin et al. 2009). This parameter, together with distance to breaking, was studied by means of the fully-nonlinear Chalikov-Sheinin (CS) model (Chalikov and Sheinin, 2005). Subsequent experiment demonstrated a good qualitative agreement with the numerical results. In the present study, both in numerical simulations and laboratory experiments, a wave group was initially generated as a superposition of two waves with primary and secondary wave steepnesses and close wave numbers, and allowed to evolve. It was shown that the modulation depth decreases as a function of the primary wave steepness, that distance to breaking also decreases with primary wave steepness, but grows as a function of the ratio of the primary and secondary wave steepnesses. Babanin et al (2007) investigated initially monochromatic wave trains, where the side bands necessary for the Benjamin-Feir (BF) modulation (Benjamin and Feir 1967) grew naturally from the background noise. These monochromatic waves experienced self-modulation, and developed into strongly modulated wave groups. In the subsequent study, Babanin et al. (2009) noticed that the depth of this modulation is essentially affected by the wind and, in turn, influences the breaking severity. In the present study, in order to achieve different modulation depths and investigate this connection of wave groups with the breaking strength, but to avoid the complicating action of the wind, the wave groups were initially imposed. It was shown that energy loss, i.e. the breaking severity is a function of modulation depth. Energy loss grows with modulation depth up to a certain level of the latter. It was also found that breaking probability for wave groups with modulation depth R