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| Titel |
Nonlinear wave effects at the non-reflecting beach |
| VerfasserIn |
I. Didenkulova, E. Pelinovsky |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1023-5809
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics ; 19, no. 1 ; Nr. 19, no. 1 (2012-01-03), S.1-8 |
| Datensatznummer |
250014160
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/npg-19-1-2012.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Nonlinear effects at the bottom profile of convex shape (non-reflecting
beach) are studied using asymptotic approach (nonlinear WKB approximation)
and direct perturbation theory. In the asymptotic approach the nonlinearity
leads to the generation of high-order harmonics in the propagating wave,
which result in the wave breaking when the wave propagates shoreward, while
within the perturbation theory besides wave deformation it leads to the
variations in the mean sea level and wave reflection (waves do not reflect
from "non-reflecting" beach in the linear theory). The nonlinear
corrections (second harmonics) are calculated within both approaches and
compared between each other. It is shown that for the wave propagating
shoreward the nonlinear correction is smaller than the one predicted by the
asymptotic approach, while for the offshore propagating wave they have a
similar asymptotic. Nonlinear corrections for both waves propagating
shoreward and seaward demonstrate the oscillatory character, caused by
interference of the incident and reflected waves in the second-order
perturbation theory, while there is no reflection in the linear
approximation (first-order perturbation theory). Expressions for wave
set-up and set-down along the non-reflecting beach are found and discussed. |
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