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| Titel |
Nonlinear long-wave deformation and runup in a basin of varying depth |
| VerfasserIn |
I. Didenkulova |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1023-5809
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics ; 16, no. 1 ; Nr. 16, no. 1 (2009-01-29), S.23-32 |
| Datensatznummer |
250013084
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/npg-16-23-2009.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| Nonlinear transformation and runup of long waves of finite amplitude in a
basin of variable depth is analyzed in the framework of 1-D nonlinear
shallow-water theory. The basin depth is slowly varied far offshore and
joins a plane beach near the shore. A small-amplitude linear sinusoidal
incident wave is assumed. The wave dynamics far offshore can be described
with the use of asymptotic methods based on two parameters: bottom slope and
wave amplitude. An analytical solution allows the calculation of increasing
wave height, steepness and spectral amplitudes during wave propagation from
the initial wave characteristics and bottom profile. Three special types of
bottom profile (beach of constant slope, and convex and concave beach
profiles) are considered in detail within this approach. The wave runup on a
plane beach is described in the framework of the Carrier-Greenspan approach
with initial data, which come from wave deformation in a basin of slowly
varying depth. The dependence of the maximum runup height and the condition
of a wave breaking are analyzed in relation to wave parameters in deep
water. |
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