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| Titel |
Evolution of skewness and kurtosis of weakly nonlinear unidirectional waves over a sloping bottom |
| VerfasserIn |
H. Zeng, K. Trulsen |
| Medientyp |
Artikel
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| Sprache |
Englisch
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| ISSN |
1561-8633
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| Digitales Dokument |
URL |
| Erschienen |
In: Natural Hazards and Earth System Science ; 12, no. 3 ; Nr. 12, no. 3 (2012-03-15), S.631-638 |
| Datensatznummer |
250010607
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| Publikation (Nr.) |
 copernicus.org/nhess-12-631-2012.pdf |
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| Zusammenfassung |
| We consider the effect of slowly varying depth on the values of skewness and kurtosis of
weakly nonlinear irregular waves propagating from deeper to shallower water.
It is known that the equilibrium value of kurtosis decreases with decreasing
depth for waves propagating on constant depth. Waves propagating over a sloping
bottom must continually adjust toward a new equilibrium state. We demonstrate
that weakly nonlinear waves may need a considerable horizontal propagation distance
in order to adjust to a new shallower environment, therefore the
kurtosis can be notably different from the equilibrium value for each
corresponding depth both on top of and beyond a bottom slope. A change of depth can provoke a wake-like
spatially non-uniform distribution of kurtosis on the lee side of the slope.
As an application, we anticipate that the probability of freak waves
on or near the edge of the continental shelf may exhibit a rather complicated spatial structure for wave fields entering from deep sea. |
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